Portfolio

Justin Clemons ©

Justin Clemons, a University of North Texas alumni, is an editorial and commercial photographer based out of Dallas. Some of Justin’s clients include Texas Monthly, NY Times, and American Airlines. While Justin travels some for work, he says he is most inspired by Texans!

How did you get started in photography? 
I started taking some photo classes in college, and enjoyed the classes so much that I just kept taking more and more until I decided to make it my major. Strangely, I never really considered myself very creative growing up. I was actually an embarrassment in high school art class, but I absolutely loved the process of creating. In college, I learned to loosen up and not to be so controlling, and I  also learned about design, composition, textures, concepts, etc.

The biggest component that pushed me into pursuing photography on a professional level was my professor Dornith Doherty.  She saw something in my work and told me that I could make it in the real world doing photography. I interned for a summer putting together kitchen appliances and cabinets to be photographed by a JCPenney’s photographer and loved every minute of it! During this time, I learned about lighting techniques, business strategies and dealing with clients, and I finally started to make the leap toward having my own business. From then on, I worked on building up my portfolio and started pursuing editorial work.

I think it’s really important to have your business and brand spread out like fingers in lots of different areas instead of just one single promotion tactic.

How do you manage the business side of photography? How do you promote yourself to potential clients?
Oh my gosh! So much time and energy is put into getting estimates together, producing jobs, managing assistants and crew, dealing with clients, billing, TAXES, post-production, promoting, updating websites, updating blogs, updating work on other websites and being active on social media. I am forced to do the business side. Business isn’t my strong suit, but I make it happen.

I think it’s really important to have your business and brand spread out like fingers in lots of different areas instead of just one single promotion tactic. I have both an editorial and an advertising list.  I try to do a printed piece about twice a year.  I am working on a magazine size promo piece at the moment. I am on some websites that show photographers and their work in order for creatives to go and find good shooters.  Some of these have a monthly fee and some are free like: PhotoServe , Wonderful Machine , and FoundFolios. Hopefully, I Love Texas Photo soon too, haha. Carissa (my rep) sets up lots of book showing at ad agencies and I try to stay pretty consistent with updating my blog.  Social media is playing a decent size role in promoting these days as well.  It’s just a good way of showing that you are busy shooting cool stuff and helps keep your name and work on people’s minds. I mostly use Instagram (@justinclemons).

What would your ideal/dream assignment be?
I recently shot a job for a publication called Whiskey Advocate. The piece was focused on a small whiskey distillery in Waco, TX called Balcones.

It was one of those jobs where at the end of the day, I got in bed thinking, “Today was a really amazing day!”  And then I thought, “I actually get paid to do this!”

It was just so much fun walking around this whiskey plant having Chip (head distiller and owner) explain the whole process while showing you the storage of old wood barrels and letting you taste all of their amazing whiskeys  (After I got my shot of course)! I love learning new things and experiencing new things. I love people that are specialists in what they do and love doing it – people that had a dream and followed it. So, maybe my dream job would be traveling around shooting people that are creating something they love and learning about their process while I’m there.

Justin Clemons ©

Why have you chosen Dallas as the place to work and be?
It’s pretty simple really… family. Dallas is where both my wife and I are from, so we have a huge web of friends and family around here.  It would be difficult to leave that behind.  And since graduating college in 2003, I have had 10 years of making connections and relationships in the Dallas photo world, connections that continue to lead to jobs. It would be really hard to start that whole process all over again somewhere else. I really like the people in Dallas. I just wish we had better weather and terrain.

Who have been or are your influences and mentors?
Like I said earlier, my professor Dornith Doherty was a huge mentor for me. I share studio space with Andy Klein, Scott Slusher and Matt Hawthorne, which is an amazing privilege. All three guys are extremely talented in different areas, and we all get along really well.  It is so helpful putting together a series or promo piece and being able to get them to come look at it and get their opinion. Specifically those who Influence my work and style, I would have to say people like…  Eric Ogden, Peter Yang, Dan Winters, Chris Buck, Chris Crisman and Julia Fullerton-Batten to name a few.

Where do you find inspiration in Texas?
I find inspiration in the people of Texas rather than a location.  There are some extremely talented and interesting people that are doing really creative things that I am challenged by.  If I were forced to name a place, I would have to say my backyard.  Just sitting back there on a nice day smoking a cigar and sipping on scotch relaxes me to the point that my mind can wonder.      

Justin Clemons ©

Do you feel that social media (twitter, facebook, and instagram) has impacted or changed the way you do business? Has it helped more than hurt?
For better or worse, it has changed things somewhat. Negatively, it adds another thing for me to do.  I always feel like I’m not Instagraming, tweeting or on Facebook enough.  I always feel behind in those areas, and when I do make time for it, it seems it’s when I’m at home or at dinner with my wife and daughter and should be paying attention to them. On the positive side, it is a way for people to see that I’m busy and I’m shooting interesting work.  Social media is a good way to keep on the front of job giving people’s minds.  I do have some art directors and creative directors I know that follow me on Instagram. It just raises their perception of you. When you are posting images from shoots or BTS shots from locations or you are just able to make everyday life look cool in photos, they put a higher value on you and your work.  They feel they can trust important shoots to you.

Who are some of your most recent or notable clients?
Some recent clients include: Texas Monthly, D Magazine, Wall Street Journal, Entrepreneur Magazine, Inc Magazine, DFW Airport, and Walmart.

When you are posting images from shoots or BTS shots from locations or you are just able to make everyday life look cool in photos, they put a higher value on you and your work.

What is the must have item in your camera bag aside from the camera? Most interesting thing in there?
Wrigley’s Doublemint gum is a must.  No matter how cool or good you are, if you got skanky breathe nobody wants to talk to you.

Justin Clemons ©

What goes into setting up a portrait shoot for you?

 I just like to be as prepared as possible, because I don’t like surprises.

I’ll answer this as if I was shooting an editorial portrait….

I want to shoot in a place that describes what they do visually, but isn’t cluttered or boring.  If people will give me the time, I try to show up at least an hour and a half before I am supposed to shoot the portrait.

When I get there, I meet the contact person and get them to give me a tour of the facility in order to scout where I want to shoot.  While I am doing this, my assistant is unloading all of the equipment from the vehicle.  I’ll pick out two locations (minimum) where we can shoot.  I explain to my assistant what lighting I want to use and where we will be shooting first, and we get to work putting it all up.

Once the lights are up and placed in the area I feel is good, my assistant stands in as the subject, and I photograph him. We make tweaks and changes until I’m excited about the image.  We will do this at the two or three locations I have picked before the subject arrives.

The subject is sometimes in a hurry and doesn’t have a whole lot of time to shoot, so we are as prepared as we can be.  If the subject is in a hurry or doesn’t like pictures, we still get good shots, because we have everything set. They can just walk up, shoot and they are done.  If the subject is cool and doesn’t mind pictures, its even better.

We can take our time, try different things, add in some relevant props, have him move around some, and get amazing shots. So much of it depends on the subject. But even if you have a boring, crabby subject, if you have cool composition, great lighting and interesting background, you can still get a good photo for your client.  I just like to be as prepared as possible, because I don’t like surprises.

 

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Cody Hamilton is an Austin-based advertising and editorial photographer specializing in the creation of images with a visual twist and an off-beat humor. His style reflects his love of the great surrealist painters with a modern and clean aesthetic. He is also the founder of the newly-opened Whitebox Studio.

Are you from Austin originally?
I grew up in Wyoming and went to school at the Art Institute in Colorado. I lived in Missouri for a bit then moved to Austin about four years ago.

What inspired you to open a studio space?
It’s something I have always wanted to do. I’ve had the name for the studio in mind for about six years. The time finally came around, and we got the right people together to do it.

Is the main focus of the space to foster collaboration? Or was it to fill a void in the Austin studio scene?
Both. All the members wanted a space to create more community but also offer it as space to rent. More and more studios are closing which makes it harder to find a space to shoot in. So, that was a big motivational factor for me to get everybody together and to get us a space. I wanted something that was nice enough and that we could all afford. Collaboration and community are a big part of what we do.  Also, we’re hoping to do quarterly industry parties as soon as we get settled in a little more and finish building the studio.

Collaboration and community are a big part of what we do

I saw the “Making of” video on your Brew Methods project.  How did you come up with that concept?
Well, I was talking to my dad actually, about trying to come up with ideas on personal projects and he asked me what I was passionate about and of course, he knew that it’s photography and coffee. So that got me thinking of ways to try to showcase coffee that have not been done before and trying to do something that’s not cheesy or the typical coffee related photo. I played around with building some lettering before so that naturally came together. Then, building the words on the different ways of brewing coffee came after. It took a ton of time but it was fun… six pounds of coffee later.

How long did it take to produce from start to finish?
Since it was a personal project that I did on the side, it took about three months because it was done in the evenings in between jobs. The longest thing was gluing all the beans on. My wife helped a little with that but did not like gluing beans as much as I did. Then, the actual cutting of the letters and space structure actually only took a couple of days.

What is the best part of producing a new body of work, from conception to the finished product?
Actually doing it. Having people see the work is fun and hearing that they enjoy looking at it is great but for me my favorite part is the actual process. I started doing more and more constructed pieces to where it’s almost like creating sculptures and then photographing them. That’s probably one of my most favorite things about it because there is the challenge of figuring out how to do that but also how to do it in a way that photographs well. That’s why I’ve done some of the behind the scenes stop motion stuff because I want people to see that’s it’s not CGI. It’s actually being crafted versus being done on the computer. As good as CGI is there’s still this soul that’s missing from it.

What are your views on extreme postproduction in any of your images, advertising or otherwise?
I have nothing against excessive retouching as long as it’s done tastefully.

What is your thought process in set design as far as using props and developing color schemes? Do you have a background in set building?
As a kid, I grew up building different things. When I was in high school my dad and I built a log house. My grandpa was an electrician so he showed me how to wire the house. It was always a part of my life growing up and I like to apply that in my photography. Color scheme is important but I like to let my wife handle that. She’s the color guru.

Is there a new project that you’re working on now? If so, could you tell us about it?
I’m experimenting a lot right now trying to figure out how my style translates into motion. I’ve been avoiding the transition but there appears to be a need in the direction my clients are taking. Not necessarily full on commercialized videos but clips that can be used for additional billboards and things like that. My next project, I’m playing with the idea of that but nothing too specific yet. There will be something soon though.

I’m experimenting a lot right now trying to figure out How my style translates into motion.

 

How did you know you wanted to be an advertising photographer? Was it your first choice?
No, actually. It’s funny because if people were to look at my portfolio when I was in school, they would have had no clue that it was the same person. Everything in it was a lot of editorial portraits. So now if you look at my website you can’t find editorial portraits even though I still shoot them. Advertising just seemed to happen naturally. I always found myself going back towards my digital roots of Photoshop and retouching. Compositing was always a thing I loved doing in high school and it just seemed to rear it’s head up every now and then with whatever I was shooting at the time. After living here for a couple of years and getting a lot of guidance from Adam Voorhes, it definitely steered me in that direction. The same thing happened with The Butler Brothers. I sat down with Marty Butler one day and and asked him to look through my portfolio and give any advise he could muster. He specifically pointed out a lot of my conceptual work and said not many people in Austin can pull this off so perhaps focus there.

What advice do you have for someone wanting to pursue commercial photography?
I think specializing is a smart thing to do. It seems that people tend to generalize their work, but I think if you want to do advertising then specializing is a must because clients are going to come to you with a specific thing and you want to be the person they go to. I think if it’s too general they won’t come. Another is to shoot a ton and just shoot what you love.

I think specializing is a SMART thing to do

What photographers are you inspired by lately?
Simon Duhmal is one. Duhmal has a collaborative studio in Canada called Made of Stills. Duhmal and some of the other guys at Made of Stills do a lot of projects similar to what I do.

I am also drawn to the work of European photographers. I go to the site Ads of the World often, and I’m most drawn to the photographers from European counties like Poland and the Czech Republic. Brussels has a lot of cool work too. That whole area seems to be willing to take more risks in advertising.

Do you have any favorite photography books?
Archives’ 200 Best Advertising Photographers is my favorite thing on earth to flip through.

There are also great blogs out there like, A Photo Editor and No Plastic Sleeves.

What are your favorite places to hang out in Austin?

El Tacorrido Drive-thru and Salvation Pizza are some of my favorites.

I also like hanging out at the dog park with my daughter and dog.

Editor notes:
Whitebox Studio has one more spot open & they’re looking for someone that can fill it. They also want students that are looking for internship possibilities and maybe have collaboration with surroundings schools with that.

+ Get ready! Whitebox Studio will be having Grand Opening party as soon as they finish the last of the construction process.

 

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How did you get into photography? Were you formally trained?
After graduating from college with a degree in Social Work, I moved to Bolivia to help a non profit working with women in prostitution for two years. I came back really burned out and was looking for some kind of new hobby to help take my mind off things. After looking at a Cartier-Bresson book my parents had on their coffee table, I thought I’d try it out.  I ended up building a darkroom in my second bathroom, became infatuated and quit my job 6 months later!

After looking at a Cartier-Bresson book my parents had on their coffee table, I thought I’d try it out

I never took  formal classes, but experimented, made mistakes, asked lots of questions and have tried to always be a learner.

Did you assist or have any mentors along the way? What did you learn from them?
I started working with artist Michael Nye in 2005 on a documentary about Hunger in the United States. We traveled to about 30 different communities across the country over a 4 year period. He shoots black and white film with an 8×10 camera and still prints in the darkroom, so I was learning the whole time–exposure, camera movements, processing film, printing, mounting, framing, exhibition installation, etc. But more than that, Michael and I would talk deeply about all kinds of issues and he constantly encouraged me to explore my curiosities. His support has been invaluable to me and we continue to have breakfast together as much as we can.

In 2007 I started assisting commercially a bit to make some extra money, but I never had the intentions of shooting commercially. I got to work with some incredibly talented people that were always super generous. After I finished the project with Michael in 2009, I started taking on some small assignments and that led to bigger jobs. I now focus on photographing architecture and doing long term book projects with arts organizations. I really enjoy doing what I do.

Did you have a first big break?
I would say a big break came in 2009 when my project, You Are What You Eat, won Director’s Choice in CENTER’s Project Competition. That really helped get me introduced to curators, arts organizations, magazine editors, etc. The project has now traveled to 15 communities and been published in over 20 magazines internationally. I have always found that my personal work helps drive my other assignment-based projects.

I have always found that my personal work helps drive my other assignment-based projects

Any favorite assignments?
A few years ago I got to work with nine artists doing large public art installations along the San Antonio River Walk. We only had access to the river at night, so we would be down there until one or two in the morning (this was before I had kids). Lots of long nights, but so much fun. Getting to document fabrication, installation and final shots of them all really gave me a chance to get to know the artists and their process. I’m still photographing for many of them around the country and the project was published as a book in 2011.

Are you represented by an agency?
I am not, but for a while I was working with Wonderful Machine. I really like them, but as I reevaluated certain aspects of my business, I shifted focus.

How do you go about marketing your work? Do you use social media? Print?
My approach has always been to try and create natural connections with people locally that may be in need of the type of photography I do. I also try really hard to nurture long term relationships with the clients I have. This works really well with my personality and I’m thankful that almost all of my work comes from word of mouth.

I’m not on Facebook and only use Instagram to stay connected with friends.The internet has been good to me though and I’m always grateful to have new work come through my website.

What gets you inspired? Do you have a dream assignment?
I look at a lot of work online, photo books, read the newspaper, listen to NPR, read books, share ideas with friends, play with my sons, listen to what’s going on around me–all of these help inspire.

I really like working on long term, collaborative book projects. These have always been the funnest for me.

Did you spend time in New York or LA getting your career established?
I did not, but I go to New York once a year to try and keep connections going.

What do you love about being a photographer in Texas?
I love working in Texas because it’s home. I can be with my sons and get access to the Fire Department I just photographed or run into a client at dinner in a restaurant they designed. I love passing by places I have photographed–its kind of like that feeling of being a regular somewhere. San Antonio is great! We love it for its diversity, friendliness, affordability, open spaces and tacos. There is a ton of new stuff happening here. We don’t want to be anywhere else!

We love it for its diversity, friendliness, affordability, open spaces and tacos

Whose work inspires you?

Any favorite photo books?
I have been looking at these books a lot the past few weeks:

Any advice for young photographers just getting started?
Try to maintain balance and always work on self-initiated projects.

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Don’t tell her I said it but I’ve had a bit of a girl-crush on Tania Quintanilla since I first saw her impeccably polished beauty shots from one of her collaborations with top Austin make up artist, Maris Malone Calderon. Now, every time I talk to Tania I realize we have more and more in common besides fashion photography; a love of red lipstick (hers Nars Red Lizard, mine, MAC Rocker,) the same favorite taco joint -Taco More, favorite flower – peony, fashionista vs geek personalities, undergrad studies in biochemistry, and a semi-secret love for vampire novels.

Tania is originally from Monterrey, Mexico but her family moved to San Antonio in 1985, “Just in time for me to memorize Top Gun and all the lyrics to Whitney Houston, the album.” She began studying photography in Texas, later moved on to Brooks Institute in California, started her career in Miami, and came back full circle as one of the best fashion photographers in Austin.

How did you get your start in photography?
I had a crush on this guy in high school that carried around a camera. I decided to take a photography class to get to know him. Turns out he was on the yearbook staff, so I fell in love with the darkroom instead. I guess I was a natural because I would get asked to shoot events all thru high school and then when I was in college getting my biochemistry degree I worked for the newspaper as the staff photographer. Once I graduated I decided to learn how to really use a flash, so I went to Brooks Institute of Photography in California where the program consists of 3 years of intensive (boot camp-like) photography education. I moved to Miami to work on my fashion portfolio and the rest is history.

Texas has soul.  Not sure if it’s the spicy food, the big skies, or the music, but it drew me back.  I love it here.  There is still a little WILD WEST feel in Texas.

Who has influenced you?
I was really lucky in school. My high school teacher, Art McNicols, really believed in me and pushed me in the right direction. Then in photography school I met TC Reiner, he is a lighting genius and an impossible teacher to please, so naturally I love him. He would make you cry in one sentence and change your life in the next. He teaches me still.

What was your best career decision?
Moving to Miami instead of NYC straight out of school. TC Reiner told me Miami was filled with talent and photographers don’t live there. He was right. I had access to great models and crew, great assisting jobs, and the competition living in town was small. I built a great client base and a solid portfolio before I moved back home to Austin.

How has the move changed your career?
I loved Miami, and I go back a lot, but I missed the people in Austin.  I think my career suffered a bit when I moved to Austin but I feel more inspired here.  The fashion world is tiny in Austin.  When people in my industry reach a certain level they tend to move to New York or California.  Just last year I lost six of my regular crewmembers.  The good news is Austin is still full of incredible talent.  I have worked with some big shots in the hair and makeup industry here.  Local models that I photographed are making it big around the world.  Most just love living in Austin and travel for work.

People are creative here.  They understand the creative process and they support it.  In Miami you can’t put your tripod on the beach without having to pay a permit.

You say that you feel more inspired in Austin, can you elaborate on that?
I feel more inspired in Texas than any other place I’ve lived because the people here keep me happy and sane.  In Austin you can start a conversation with a barista in some random coffee shop who also has a PhD in rocket science.  People are creative here.  They understand the creative process and they support it.  In Miami you can’t put your tripod on the beach without having to pay a permit.  (NO OFFENSE, Miami.)  Texas has soul.  Not sure if its the spicy food, the big skies, or the music, but it drew me back.  I love it here.  There is still a little WILD WEST feel in Texas. It’s freeing.

Your retouching skills are pretty mind-blowing. How did you learn and how long do you typically spend retouching one beauty shot?
I have to admit I’m a little bit of a weird nerd.  I grew up on video games and Vogue magazine.   I always wanted to be a one of those kids who could draw, but I didn’t have the patience.  When I was introduced to Photoshop 10 years ago, my world opened up.  I took all the classes my school offered and would play with my images for hours.  Then out of college, I attended seminars, bought tutorials, and practiced.  Once you know something is possible you can find a way to make it happen.  These days for a really complicated beauty image it might take me 3 hours to retouch.

Once you know something is possible you can find a way to make it happen.

How do you manage the business side of photography? Do you send email blasts and postcards? 
No, I try a little, sometimes, but most of my work comes from pimping out my portfolio.  I am always updating my website and blog.  I try to keep up with my social media.  I get a lot of work from referrals.  When I get a couple of weeks off, I am going to implement some sort of marketing e-blast thru Agency Access.  Also, I am currently represented by Wonderful Machine, and they seem to be getting the work out.

 

 

 

 

How do you feel that social media has changed photography, good or bad? Do you Instagram? 
I love to Instagram, hate to Twitter, and I feel neutral about Facebook.   I do think social media is the future of advertising.  As for personal marketing, the key is to get the followers with influence.  I’m not sure I have that yet.  I do plan to one day get smarter about my social media.  For now, I’m just participating on the sidelines.  

What would your dream assignment be?
I love any assignment that will take me, and my pick of an excellent crew, to wild locations hidden around the world.  Also, I love to shoot big hair and makeup ad campaigns.

 I do think social media is the future of advertising.  As for personal marketing, the key is to get the followers with influence.

Any horror stories?
I’ve had models faint on set, clients cancel shoots because of one word on a contract, missed flights, and shoots in 110 degrees with swamps of mosquitos.  It’s all part of the job.

What is next for your career?
I hope to keep my home base here and split my time between Austin and NYC.  Austin is growing so much but I would really have to focus on lifestyle to flourish in Austin’s advertising Industry.  I’m more of a fashion and beauty photographer and that kind of work is limited here.  I’m also looking for more aggressive representation.

Do you have a favorite Texas place to shoot, visit, or find inspiration when you are not working in the studio?
I love the old architecture of downtown San Antonio.  I love to shoot in the hill country.  Have you been to Hamilton Pool?  It’s like fairies and unicorns live there.

I’ve had models faint on set, clients cancel shoots because of one word on a contract, missed flights, and shoots in 110 degrees with swamps of mosquitos.  It’s all part of the job.

What would you be doing if you were not a photographer?  
This question scares me.  In an alternate universe sits a girl in a biochem lab studying genetics that looks just like me.  I don’t think she’s happy though.

What are some of your other hobbies? What do you enjoy doing when you are not shooting?  I am obsessed with ceramics.  I love hand building and anything Raku. I’m also still addicted to vampire novels.  I know that boat has sailed for most but when the time comes to be tested on my vampire knowledge I could write a thesis.  My new love is paddle boarding on the lake.  LOVE, LOVE the summer fun!!!

 

 

Jonathan Zizzo ©

Jonathan Zizzo is a commercial photographer based out of Dallas. His social media bio reads “Conceived in the backseat of a Chevy Nova at the Dinosaur Valley State Park. Mother was a gogo dancer and father was a trucker. I’m a great photographer.” So we sat down with him to find out more.

How did you decide or know photography was what you wanted to do?
I started out as a Fine Art Major at Kilgore College. I was very interested in art, so I studied graphic design. The graphic design program did not inspire me though. I was completing projects before other students and didn’t feel challenged. While at Kilgore, I was required to take a photography class and began to shoot for the student newspaper. I loved the responsibility of creating pictures for a story and fell in love with the program.

Who have been some of the influencing mentors you’ve had?
Rufus Lovett is the reason I got into photography on a deeper level. His sense of humor made it fun to show up to class. Rufus, the photography instructor,  is a Texas monthly contributor.  Rufus was also a Assistant to Ansel Adams at one time.

I know a lot of people ask you why you don’t move to LA or NYC with the type of portfolio you have. Why Dallas?
Dallas is where it is happening for me. Dallas is home to 18 Fortune 500 companies. We have major advertising agencies here that hold the keys to some of the most extraordinary brands of all time. If I did move to LA or NY, I would be starting over.

For me there is always the opportunity to do work for companies and agencies in both of those cities. By the time I’m 50 or 60 years old I don’t want to be in a city that is for the youthful entrepreneur. I don’t want that midlife crisis to be happily unmarried and be begging for a transition to the simple life. I’m a country boy at heart.  Moving to NY or LA is so cliché’ Like this is Texas we are supposed to be the big bad and the ugly. Those places are only “cool” by a popular opinion. There’s a lot of opportunity in this City and I’m proudly an ambassador to change the mentality or preconceived ideas that people have formed about Dallas.

How did you get into photographing celebrities? What do you enjoy most about it
I was a Staff Photographer at Envy Magazine a publication that was here in Dallas for a few years. I don’t think people ever realized all off those celebrity covers were shot here in Dallas.

What are you currently working on? Do you have anything big happening for you in 2013?
I’m working a portrait series for Zodiac Watches.  I am shooting professional athletes & celebrity personality’s people who most would consider legendary types. Starting 2013 with a project like this is great!

Jonathan Zizzo ©

What inspires you or what do you look for when shooting portraits and fashion?

When I’m shooting a portrait of someone. I’m interested in creating an image that shows a likeness of the person. The moment that I come into contact with this individual I am studying their body language. Looking for nuances, things that might make the picture more interesting. I like saving room for spontaneity. When I’m shooting fashion i’m looking for models that can take direction well & move well. I’m inspired by guys like Lee Clow and George Lois. Life is so inspirational, I’m interested in a broad spectrum of things. I like to wonder around 99 cent only stores and look at everything on the shelves and take a mental image of things I can buy as a prop for only a dollar. I think it’s important to not lose your sense of wonder. Stay as curious about all things as possible.

Jonathan Zizzo ©

What is #iamthezizz?
It’s basically just a user name!  Coaches and friends growing up started calling me the Zizz, so I embraced it! I’ll eventually have to switch it up as I get older, I am sure. My middle name is Buck. I’m really looking forward to changing my name to that when I’m much older. Buck Zizzo is pretty bold! I don’t think I’m quite there yet.

Do you have any hobbies?
I’ve been riding BMX since I was 14. Unfortunately, all of my friends (my age)  have real jobs and I don’t get to spend as much time with those guys scootin’ around the skatepark as I would like.

What are your thoughts on Instagram?
Instagram is a basically digital pollution. That is highly addictive and everyone is contributing to it. I know a lot of photographers who take it really seriously. They are probably out there right now kneeling down pointing and clicking trying to find that artistic angle. It’s even worse when they use the phonto app, throwing typography over their photo like it’s as popular as a Taylor Swift album cover. Shooting pictures with your iPhone, worrying which application or filter to use, is for the consumer you guys. Listen, NO Art Director should give a rat’s ass about  what you’re doing with your iPhone. I understand mobile technology is on the rise but I use the internet as a form of dialog to draw people in, form a likeness, and build relationships with people who “like” what I’m interested in. Trying to prove to everyone that you’re such a badass with your iPhone makes no sense. Stop already.

Favorite place for drinks?
Cosmos, I go there because I want to have a drink and be around folks that are there for the same reason. It’s no glitz, no glam. Just a place to divulge into adult beverages!

BBQ?
Peggy Sue’s in Highland Park of all places. It has this mom and pop type vibe to it. They haven’t changed the price of their menu items based on their zip code. I’m a patron and whoever is reading this should be too!

What’s in your camera bag right now?
I’m currently shooting with a Nikon D600 24.3 full frame HDSLR. I’ve had shutters go out on previous bodies, so I don’t see the point in dropping 7 grand on a body. If I was making payments on a camera like that I’d be really ticked off at Nikon and Canon right now. This camera is terrific. It does exactly what I need it to. There are so many rental houses in Dallas, which is very fortunate. It’s easy to get your hands on something with more resolution like a Hasselblad or a Phaseone camera  if you need it. I also use Speedotron Lighting equipment. My 2400 packs boss hog electricity and trips breakers watch out.

Jonathan Zizzo ©

Various Covers - photos from L to R: LeAnn Mueller, O.Rufus Lovett, Peter Yang


Leslie Baldwin is one of the most sought after photo editors in Texas.   She shares her insights, favorite TM covers, and advice on approaching photo editors.  ”You have to be totally passionate and dedicated or you’re going to get steam-rolled. Next comes perseverance and patience. Oh, and be nice!  That’s very, very important.”

 

How did you get started in photo editing?
It was quite an indirect route, which I think is common for a lot of photography editors. I received a BFA from UT, which is great, but it doesn’t quite prepare you for the real world. After I graduated, I had enough sense to know that photography had the most real-world application — as opposed to painting or print-making which I did quite a lot of in school. And if I wanted to avoid working for the IRS or Allstate I needed to learn fast how to make a living with photography.

I started out taking pictures of kids, but struggled to make ends meet. I had a lot to learn about the trade. I moved to New York in 1995 and landed a job as a studio manager. I didn’t even know what a studio manager was at first! That job was basically boot camp into the photo industry. I went on to manage the studio for Matt Mahurin whose work I admired so much. That was a fantastic job. I learned all aspects of producing shoots and dealing with magazines. Matt was doing a ton of editorial work at that time. It was through this job that I developed an interest in becoming a photo editor, so when Matt shut down his Greenwich Village studio and moved to Long Island I transitioned over to working at magazines.

My first full-time magazine position was working with Arthur Hochstein, the Creative Director at Time magazine. I helped coordinate covers at Time for four years. I had been in New York for 8 years and was becoming homesick right at the same time a staff change was happening at Texas Monthly. I jumped at the chance to come home and come on board at Texas Monthly. I interviewed with Scott Dadich and, fortunately, I got the job. Here I am nine years later.

  Be talented.  And be nice.

 

Texas Monthly is one of the most desirable publications to shoot for in the country; how can one make an impression with you if you’re inundated with emails and promos.
That’s a really good question because I am totally inundated! Show your best work and keep it simple. And as counter-intuitive as this might sound, don’t expect a reply. Just keep sending the occasional e-mail or promo. If your work is good and relevant to our publication, we know you’re out there and will come to you when the time is right.

I still love old-school promos too, btw. I get a stack of mail everyday, and while 95% of it might go in the trash if there’s that one promo I like I put it on my stack of promos on the shelf (see below). It might be nine or ten months later, but I’ll remember the work and will go look for the promo if we want to consider hiring that person.

Be talented.  And be nice.

Since you mentioned what to do, what are things NOT to do when contacting you or any other photo editor?
Do not call or email and ask what type of photography I want. It is the photographer’s job to know what type of work a magazine publishes. There’s not a photo editor in the world who has time to call someone and explain what type of images they run.

Being persistent is a good thing, but there is a fine line when it switches over to being annoying. It’s very difficult for me to be able to give individual feedback about someone’s work. There’s just no time. I get multiple e-mails a day asking for that one-on-one attention. I wish I had more time, but, the hard truth is that I don’t.

Unless I’m your best friend, do not IM me on Facebook.

Tell us about a shoot that went horribly wrong.
Honestly, we haven’t had a total catastrophe. My struggles have been more with celebrities and their egos!

Navigating the Tommy Lee Jones shoot was quite difficult (ok, I cried that night). He’s known for being a tough character, so I don’t think I’m speaking out of line here: we flew in Kurt Markus from Montana and we all caravanned out to Tommy’s ranch. After 5 minutes, TLJ said it was time to shut it down. That was tough, because it was supposed to be our cover, and I just knew we didn’t have it.

So when something like that happens with Tommy Lee and it’s a cover shoot, what happens?

Our Editor had to call his publicist – he had a movie coming out – and we had to inform them that we barely got any images. They did allow us to come shoot him again, and we got a few more frames, but it wasn’t much different than before. It was just a difficult shoot. The images ended up running on the inside of the magazine. In the end, I really like the way the portraits came out. Tommy Lee kind of looks like hell, but hey…

Do you get to go on shoots often?
Rarely. We’ll go to cover shoots if they’re nearby. It’s too bad, because that’s the most fun part of my job, when I’m able to get away from the desk and go.

You’d mentioned hiring a photographer from Montana for the Tommy Lee shoot and you sometimes hire out of town photographers. Does that get the goat of Texas photographers? Do they give you a hard time?

Some of our contributors who have a long history with Texas Monthly will give me a hard time if we use another photographer too much or fly someone in from out of state – but it’s always in a friendly way. I think in general photographers are a competitive group of folks, so it gets their goat when anyone is hired besides them! Doesn’t matter if it’s here locally or out-of-state.

Sometimes I try to explain to them (and to staffers too who will sometimes ask) that even though the bulk of our photographers are here locally, we still love and are excited that we’re occasionally able to bring in photographers that aren’t based here – whose work we love and we think would be fitting for a particular story (Todd Hido, for example).

We have a lot of photographers that grew up in Texas that have moved, either to LA or NY, and so we have great pre-existing relationships with a lot of folks who are no longer here but who come back on occasion — people like Peter Yang and Van Ditthavong.

So it sounds like there’s a story and you hire based on who’s best suited for the story?
Definitely. We try hard to match up the right photographer with the right story. Some photographers will be fine wandering around a ranch all day, while others might find that terrifying and prefer a studio environment – which I totally understand. For covers, sometimes we know we’ll need to do a lot of comping and post-production. Someone like Randal Ford is a master of that. He managed to photograph a chimpanzee in Las Vegas and put it in the same frame as a shoot we did here in Austin – it appeared as if it was all in-frame. That type of shoot is not for every photographer!

Since you’re talking about covers, do you have a really controversial cover and a favorite cover, or is it like your kids and you can’t pick a favorite?
I tried to pick a favorite, but I couldn’t. On the one hand, you have the classic Texas Monthly covers – cowgirls, cowboys, small towns , etc. — that are cliches on some level, yet I never tire of them because I think we do them so well (I should specifically point out our Creative Director, TJ Tucker, who designs and art directs them so well). On the other hand I love the big production shoots we frequently do with photographers like Randal Ford. His 2011 cover for Best and Worst legislators (which was a remake of a cover we did in 1977) was so much fun to do — as was our How To Raise A Texan cover, though it was almost the death of me. Lots and lots of work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One that was really controversial more than the others?
Dick Cheney as our Bum Steer of the year was probably the most controversial . You might recall in 2007 Dick Cheney, unfortunately, shot his friend in the face on a hunting expedition.  We did a spoof of the National Lampoon magazine cover where it says “If You Don’t Buy This Magazine, We’ll Kill This Dog (below).”

 

 

Darren Braun created this spot-on photo-illustration and we thought it was perfect, but a lot of our readers were really, really offended.  One reader was so offended they took their shotgun to the issue and mailed it to our editor (below).  But, I totally love that cover and thought it was perfectly executed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Should photographers pitch story ideas to you? Is it worth the effort? Say you like the idea, what happens next behind the scenes?
Yes, it’s worth the effort. If it’s a good idea, it’ll stick in my brain and we’ll offer it up at our monthly ideas meeting. Or present it to out editor directly. But, be patient, it might be something that we can’t explore until a year or two down the road.

 

If your work is good and relevant to our publication, we know you’re out there and will come to you when the time is right.

What do you think about instagram? Other magazines have started hiring instagrammers, and I noticed Texas Monthly just recently got an account and had some images from Allison V. Smith from Marfa.

I think instagram is fine, but, for me, it doesn’t beat seeing a 10-page photo spread in a magazine.

Allison V. Smith asked if she could send some stuff from Marfa for the web and our instagram account. It was the first time we’d hired someone specifically for social media. Her work came out beautiful. No denying that.

Since the Texas Photo Roundup reviews are just around the corner, do you prefer print or iPad portfolios?
I’m open either way. I love iPad portfolios but still enjoy the physical books as well. Photographers sometimes present their work then apologize, which photographers should never do! They should feel confident in the way they’ve chosen to introduce themselves.

While it’s rare, I might still get the occasional set of loose prints that are disorganized, etc. – I’d avoid that for sure.

Any final thoughts or advice for any up and coming photographers?
First and foremost, you have to have talent. I know that’s hard to define, but you have to be totally passionate and dedicated or you’re going to get steam-rolled. Next comes perseverance and patience. Oh, and be nice! That’s very, very important.

I know in this digital age, it’s harder and harder to have the personality and vision of the photographer shine through. While it’s impossible to define talent and what being original means, just do what you want to do, and not what you think someone expects or is the trend.

————————————–

Favorite BBQ:

I’m a Smitty’s girl. Just love the brisket and that open fire pit that greets you when you first walk in.

Favorite Beverage:

Water, of course. Next up: Vodka + anything.

Favorite Weekend Getaway Spot in Texas:

It’s been a couple years but there are some rental cabins out on the Rio Frio that I just love. It’s a notch up from camping for sure, but still pretty rustic. And enough of a drive where there aren’t too many floating drunks.

StyleMeFoods10

How do you make food look so appetizing on a shoot?
There are a lot of little tricks for every type of food but I try and make things look “real.” For me, real means slightly messy, full of ooziness, crumbs, and gooey cheese.

Event planning like food styling, makes you think on your feet and troubleshoot, something that happens on every job

How did you get your start as a food stylist?
I previously had a career in event planning that helped train me to become very detail oriented.  Event planning — like food styling — makes you think on your feet and troubleshoot, something that happens on every job.  After a few years in the event planning world, I switched gears and embraced my passion for food. I worked for a well-known chef who led me to the recipe development mecca: America’s Test Kitchen.  At the Test Kitchen I developed original recipes, wrote articles and was head of the Cooks Country Magazine photo shoots where I developed my expertise in food styling and prop selection.

Did you have a big break?  
I’ve built my business with several large, national clients in a short amount of time, which is great, but of course, I always want to do more!

What’s the most photogenic food (needing the least help to look delicious)?
I think cakes.  You take so much time and care in making them that they pretty much style themselves.

What is the hardest food to style?
Ice cream, hands down.

Will you take us through a typical food shoot?  (like prep time, etc. so they see how much work you do before anybody even gets there)
Prep is ALWAYS needed but not always given; sometimes it feels like a luxury.  Simply having time to set-up your tools, what you’re using in the kitchen and on-set and setting out a plan for the day goes a long way in making the rest of the shoot run smoothly. Typically you’re “cooking” each component of a plate separately so organization is crucial.

Is the food usually edible?  If so, who eats the leftovers after the shoot?
Most food I style is technically edible but I wouldn’t suggest eating it.  Anyone who’s worked on a food set knows not to eat (or touch) the food!

Most food I style is technically edible but I wouldn’t suggest eating it

What is the strangest item you have in your styling tool kit?
Oh it’s filled with many strange items, I’m always worried what security sees when I have to travel… I’d have to say the strangest is my baby “snot sucker” aka baby aspirator. I use it to remove very small amounts of liquid. I recently used it on raw oyster.

What is the most challenging thing about being a food stylist?
Schlepping around all your gear!  You never really know exactly what you’ll need so if you’re like me, you bring EVERYTHING!  (Don’t look in my hall closet…)

What is your favorite thing about working in Texas?
I’m a fairly new “Texan”, I’ve only been here just about 3 years but it’s becoming home.  Moving from Boston, Texas feels very welcoming.  As a Midwestern girl, I appreciate a “good morning” or smile from a stranger. I’ve been lucky to connect with great food photographers, designers and restaurants and am excited to build more relationships in the industry.

What projects have you done lately?
For the past two years I’ve worked on the new Whataburger campaign with local food photographer, Jody Horton.  The campaign has been well received and we’re really proud of our work (it’s also pretty great seeing it in billboard form).

I’ve also been working in Houston with Ralph Smith (and recently, NYC at Michael Schrom’s studio), for Joe’s Crab Shack, which has been a fun and challenging project.

I also styled the recipes in the new Salt Lick Cookbook. Austin photographer Kenny Braun shot the book in its entirety and the local Pentagram office led the design.  I enjoyed working with these talented people and the pictures will make you want to drive straight to Driftwood for a BBQ fix.

What’s next? Exciting projects coming up for 2013?
I’m excited to continue working with Joe’s Crab Shack.  I’m also looking forward to adding a new burger client.

The start to the New Year also means I get to work with a regular client, the National Mango Board.  I develop mango recipes for their promotional materials and website and have recently begun styling those recipes since they moved their photo shoots to Texas.

How do you define success in your own career?
I think success is when you get called again for another job; you know you’ve made that client happy.

I think success is when you get called again for another job

What advice do you have for aspiring food stylists or photographers interested in shooting food?
Practice and assist. It’s a difficult career to wrap your head around and can’t really be learned except by doing.

Favorite breakfast taco?
Shocking, I know, but I really don’t do breakfast tacos, I prefer going straight to lunch… The Democrat from Torchys is the best.

Photos by: Kimberly Davis, Jody Horton, and Ralph Smith

texas photo

How did your career as a stylist begin?
I first started in San Francisco just after college working on fashion shows at the Macy’s in Union Square.  The  second one I did was for Donna Karan and I got to work with her daughter on styling it.  After a short stint there it became obvious to me that I needed to start a career in New York to really learn the industry and be in the center of it, so there I just hit the pavement, assisting several stylists and working on everything from editorial at Vanity Fair to test shoots with Terry Richardson to advertising for Celine.

How was working with Vanity Fair? What about Terry Richardson & Celine?
Everything was a new and exciting experience for me at the time and being able to work with some of the best in the world was humbling, but also made me realize a big part of being talented just comes from the confidence to just do it.  Vanity Fair has an amazing staff of smart people and was a great experience every time.  Terry Richardson pretty much lives up to his image.  The Celine shoot was shot by Patrick Demarchelier and I spent most of the time holding the purse to the side from off camera and trying to figure out what Demarchelier was saying in his muttering thick accent.

Do you have a most memorable styling job?
Well, I have to say the job is never run-of-the-mill, so there are many to remember.  Though most of the more scandalous and funny ones are from my assisting days working with celebrities, traveling around the world, and meeting many off-the-wall “fashion” characters.  But, probably my most memorable job as a stylist has been a trip to Thailand that I took last year for a European store called C&A that is run by a Chinese company and had a Taiwanese ad agency.  Every part of it was a learning experience, since we were working with many local Thailand-based talent.  The people were lovely and the experience was wonderful, but not without its many hilarious moments lacking correct translation when talking about fashion and creativity.

Do you have any gripes about photographers on set? Not specific people but just things that photographers may do that make stylists crazy? And on the other hand, are there things that some photographers do that you find really helpful? 
Well, it is always a joy (a hint of sarcasm) when the photographer wants to change or more often “add to” the whole direction of a look once we get to a location or start shooting…i.e. it would look really great to have a huge floppy hat here, did you happen to bring one?

Mostly, what works with photographers is a chemistry and symbiotic relationship

Mostly, what works with photographers is a chemistry and symbiotic relationship that is hard to describe when it works, because yes most of it is good communication, but also it is an ability to work off of each other’s ideas.  It’s nice when a photographer trusts you enough to show you inspiration images, then choose great locations and set ups, then just lets me do my thing with the clothing to fit the situation.

What is your personal style?
I am a simple girl.  I like clean lines and strong (sometimes even masculine) details.  But, overall I like a little edginess that makes an everyday comfortable outfit seem effortlessly chic.

You lived in New York and LA for some time, do you think this was important to establishing your career?
Absolutely.  It helped me to develop a heightened aesthetic and an uncompromising eye.  Not to mention, those places are where the work is.  Other US cities will never have the quantity of work that New York (and even LA) provide.  There is an entire industry and pools of quality talent in all the fields needed to participate.  A good shoot depends on high quality talent from not only the photography, but also from the hair, makeup, styling, production, models, and all of the assistants.  Even more importantly, all of these talented people that I have gotten to know along the way are some of my greatest friends.  We have spent many hours together away from our families and shared a lot of laughs and also….a lot of drinks.

When we first met, we talked a bit about agents. You have decided not to have an agent for the time being, could you discuss that?
For me, at least for the time being, it just is the right thing.  That could always change again.  I used to have an agent and depending on what you want from your career at each point in time, you have to weigh all the odds, as well as the pros and cons of what an agent brings to the picture.  I am also working now as an interior designer in Austin, so now I like to pick and choose my projects as a stylist and have enough colleagues that hire me regularly, so I really don’t have the need for one.

A GOOD SHOOT DEPENDS ON HIGH QUALITY TALENT FROM NOT ONLY THE PHOTOGRAPHY, BUT ALSO FROM THE HAIR, MAKEUP, STYLING, PRODUCTION, MODELS, AND ALL OF THE ASSISTANTS.

I know that you travel a lot for work; how many assignments end up being out of state? Where do they usually take place?
Most of my styling projects are in Los Angeles.  I’ll go to New York very rarely nowadays.  I used to travel to Dallas quite a bit, but have not been doing that for about a year and half.  I’ve just got a crew and network of people in LA that I work with and for, as well as a place to stay when I’m there, so that makes a job where you are juggling a lot just a little easier.

Where do you draw inspiration from, when you’re styling, and shopping, and working?
Everywhere!  I mean sometimes it’s magazines, blogs, or the runway, but often times I get ideas just from looking around me either at the cute girl who just passed me on the sidewalk or the pillows that I see on someone’s couch.

Any specific blogs you are loving?
I look at StyleLikeU, Emmas Designblogg, and The Brick House a lot, but often I really just find things through random searches – I am kind of wierdo when it comes to the online research.

What’s next? Any exciting projects coming up in 2012?
I’ve had a few great clients that book me every season, so those are always fun, because having that comfort to really push the envelope and be myself is great.  I’m looking forward to working with Dakine in a couple of weeks and Lee Jeans toward the end of the year.

Who are your repeat clients? Can you talk about your project with Lee Jeans? Did the photographer hire your or did Lee put together the team? 
Lee Jeans, Dakine, Galleria Malls, and I work with the photographer Colette De Barros all the time, so in that way she is very much a repeat client.  With Lee, I was initially brought on 3 years ago by Colette to shoot for them and have been working with them ever since, though now they ask for me directly even when they use other photographers.

What has been your best career decision?
Wow, who knows….probably the decision to stop caring when I got turned down or didn’t get a job.

How do you stay motivated?
Well, the end product or the idea of what the end product could be is what motivates me and the idea of making something visually stimulating propels me.

What is your favorite thing about styling in Texas?
I like living MY life and not trying to live to keep up with anyone else’s.

Do you have a mentor in the field?
I worked for Jennifer Hitzges for over a year full time in New York and from her I learned how to run “me” as a business.  I was also very encouraged by Sciascia Gambaccini, for whom I also worked.

Do you have a dream assignment?
A regular, seasonal, huge advertising campaign for a brand like J.Crew or Levi’s that wants to shoot in Austin every time!  Maybe if I say it, it will happen?

Favorite bbq?
Franklin BBQ

Favorite breakfast taco?
Taco Deli

Favorite libation?
Lately its been anything with strong ginger OR I love a martini!

Do you collect anything?
I am an avid purger!  But, I very much like glass and crystal glasses.

Any hobbies outside styling?
Hiking, walks with my dog, and flea markets/estate sales.

The Texas Observer covers: Left: Matt Wright Steel; Right: Lance Rosenfield

The ladies of Em Dash Custom Publishers, Creative Directors Erin Mayes and Kate Iltis, do everything from magazine design, art buying, and art direction.  ILTP chatted with this award-winning duo in their East Austin office over sandwiches from Gourmands.

How did Em Dash get started? 

Erin: The honest story – I worked at Pentagram with DJ Stout for 5 years, and there was a period where he thought about moving to join the San Francisco office.   It was the wake up call of “ok, what are you going to do next.”  When I was in NY, and decided to move to Austin, I knew I would have limited work options here unless I decided to do something really different.

Kate and I met at Pentagram. We knew we had a similar design sensibility, and spoke the same language, but she had moved to NY.

Kate:  I  got to work with Erin for about a split second before I was transferred to another team within the office. We hit it off immediately and so we found an excuse to work together designing posters for poets for free in our spare time. Huge money maker! Anyway my passion was magazine design so I knew I had to move to New York to do it. She acted as a mentor during that time and we stayed in touch. When she told me she was going to go out on her own I definitely had in the back of mind that I would want to join her some day. I remembered how fun it was to create work with her and admired what a great designer she is. About 2 years into it, she was doing really well, and I asked her if she needed help.  So, I quit my responsible job at Outside magazine, and took a chance on the idea that you could still do good magazine design and not have to work for a large magazine. Plus it was a great excuse to come back to Austin. We partnered two years ago and now are just trying to make good work on our own terms.  Somehow in the land where print is dying, we have been able to survive a recession, stay in business and still make work we are really proud of.

[We] believe you hire talented people and let them do the work you’ve hired them to do.

Since you guys kind of do everything from art buying, to photo editing, you’re designers, sometimes stylists – related to photography, how does that whole creative process work?  

Erin:  It all starts with a story. We try to figure out how to tell the visual part of the story in a way that’s a little bit compelling and unusual.  If we think it’s best to be told with photography, then next we decide if it’s conceptual or a portrait or something documentary. The style is developed by the tone of the story. Then we try to match up photographers with the story and pitch it to our clients.  For example, if there’s some serious photojournalism element to it, we try to find a documentary photographer, who would be interested or who would have a unique take on the subject…see the story in some special way.

Kate:  Creative process wise, we either have an idea, or we’re going to a photographer that’s known for a certain thing, and let them do their thing.  Budget sometimes plays a role in that.  We try to be helpful when it’s not in the budget – we take on role of producer, stylist, prop-getter – only because we can’t afford it.  With a small team, you have to divide and conquer. We’re really only on set when there’s a lot of heavy lifting; we art direct when we there’s a specific concept.  We have a mixture of photographers who both like and hate having an art-director on set.  It’s a relationship; so you work to make sure the photographer is excited about their day’s work so they can focus on shooting.

Erin and I both believe that you hire talented people and let them do the work you’ve hired them to do.

Erin:  We are very aware of trying to make sure there’s a well-rounded mix of art throughout the magazine, so it’s not just documentary or conceptual photos or illustration.  We really love working with alumni magazines because they aren’t ultimately selling ads. Often with alumni magazines, they tell stories through one (usually) professor’s or VIP’s news…it ends with how they gave money to some department, and there’s a portrait of a professor holding their research or a donor holding a big check. But when the stories are good and there’s an actual story there, there’s a huge opportunity to do something a bit more challenging.

Their readership – by the time they open their alumni magazine – is already in the collegiate mindset. Academia made these readers conditioned to ask questions and to be challenged by ideas (hopefully). So that’s the mindset that we try to appeal to graphically. They’re already open to being challenged, so we need to take advantage of that.

I know you talked a little bit about working with photographers, but how do you find them?  Do you find them through email promos or print promos? 

Kate:  It’s rare that a promo gets me to hire a photographer.  I don’t know if that means that I’m on the wrong lists and I don’t get the good stuff, but even when I worked in national magazines we received so much mail that it was hard to go thru and see the good stuff.  I do definitely, however, pay attention to what other magazines are doing If I see a shot that I like, I always look at the credit and check out that person’s work. We also pay attention to the community here in Austin.  I think we’ve had local clients that have opened us up to photographers that we wouldn’t have known about on our own.  We’ve gotten access to some up and coming photographers because, although the budgets can be tiny, people are excited about the stories and will do work for their portfolio work.  And that’s led us down a rabbit hole of different people. And definitely for documentary work, we attend things like Slideluck Potshow and it helps us see who’s out there.

A personal email gets my attention a lot quicker…sometimes great people fall off our radar only because we are really busy.

Erin:  I actually do look at the email promos. But there are so many from NY and LA, that I’ll just bookmark the interesting ones from the rest of the country.

Kate:  I glance at them but I haven’t hired from them very often. A personal email gets my attention a lot quicker mainly when its showing something cool you have just done. I ask a lot of photographers to keep me in the loop on new stuff so they stay in my head when I am looking for something specific. Since its just Erin and I, sometimes great people fall off our radar only because we are really busy.

Erin:  We also use PDN a lot, especially if we’re looking for someone outside of Austin.  Or we ask other photo editors or other art directors. If we have the budget, we’ll go through a photo reps, but that doesn’t happen very often.

Kate:  We also call up on people we know in national magazine land to help us when we are hiring outside of Austin. The community is not very large so its easy to pick up the phone and see who other people have been using.

How much of the design is based on the art?  Or is it vice-versa?  Do you guys have a design in mind and hire based on that, or do you do it the other way around?  Is it a little bit of both? 

Kate:  The concept is what drives it.  Design wise, we always react to the art that’s provided. We can’t make a call on design until we have a good idea of the art.

Erin:  Half the design work is in choosing the photographer or illustrator. Most of the time, the art does the heavy lifting in terms of getting people to pay attention to the story.

Kate: It’s easier if we’ve done our homework on the front end in the hiring, then our design just supports the concept – and we’re not putting lipstick on a pig.

If someone takes one of our magazines into the toilet with them to read, then we’ve done our job.

You guys have had some insanely creative ideas, that can push the boundaries, like your cover for the Texas Observer that went viral;   Do you have a favorite or memorable photo shoot?

Erin: I really love the ones where we were a big part of the production and have more pride in the ones where we got our hands dirty. I have a soft spot in my heart for the Barry Cooper/800-lb pig story we did for the Texas Observer, because it’s a good story and it was the first big dumb-ass idea that we pulled off nicely.  I was behind-the-scenes on that one, but still feel incredibly proud of to have been a part of it.

Kate:  The most fun photo shoots in general are the ones where the idea is crazier than the ability to accomplish it.  One of our rules in brainstorming is we don’t get to ask “How are we gonna find this?” or “How are we gonna do this?” That photo idea was inspired by the George Lois’s Esquire Cover “Pigs Vs. Kids.”

It’s a long story, but basically Barry Cooper used to be a corrupt cop who reformed and decided to make it his mission to catch other corrupt cops, and to educate people through a DVD series on how to not get busted. Anyway, we wanted to take the nod to the George Louis cover, and the idea was to have our guy face-to-face fighting a pig.  So first we had to track down this animal, which in Texas, you wouldn’t think would be so hard.

So we found an 800lb-er and with the help of a very patient photographer, Matt Wright Steel, we took the shoot into the pig pen. Mud, shit and all.  It was about to rain and Matt, rightfully so, was worried about his equipment.  We had to orchestrate this giant pig to walk around and stand in front of a backdrop for one second before he moved on.  Then there were 10 other pigs roaming the pen, so the owners were helping us keep the other pigs away.Pigs are like 3 year olds and super curious, so we would turn our backs for a second and they would be getting into something else.

I was holding a light, our designer, Joanna Wojtkowiak was holding the backdrop because the other pigs kept knocking it over, and we were waiting for the owner to coax the pig, with a bottle of milk, into position just long enough for Barry to get into a fighting stance.

It was one of those things that, at the time, was so stressful, but when you look at the photo you go, “Hell yea! We nailed it!”  It’s one of the things I love about photography.  It’s amazing what’d you see if you could un-crop the cover and see everything that’s going on to capture that image.

It’s ultimately why I love this work—magazine design allows for some crazy collaborations. Whereas advertising doesn’t let you so much, where you have a bunch of other people in the room signing off on a photo.

Erin.  The “Politics Gets Personal” cover for The Texas Observer is another favorite one. It is so fabulously creepy and wince-inducing.

Kate: It was so crazy that it went viral.  It made a lot of people uncomfortable which for this story and what it was trying to communicate meant we were successful.

We have a joke in the office that if someone takes one of our magazines into the toilet with them to read, then we’ve done our job. We work in this little pocket of small circulation magazines, so to actually have it hit something close to 20,000 likes and to have that many people see the photo when the circulation of the Observer is only 8,000, was a big deal.

We’re always doing guerrilla type shoots and asking permission where we have to.  It’s all low budget.  Kind of like a school project.

Erin:  I like that though— the fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants ideas. There was something really great about starting your school projects where there are endless possibilities to do whatever and no real-world consequences…getting your friends dressed up to act for a photo or layout.  And here we are as grown ups, still doing that.  

Advice for photographers out there?

Erin:  Sounds trite, but do what you love.  You always make better images when you do what you love.  You really have to be obsessive about making photos, and you definitely have to have have the personality, drive, and conviction to be in this profession.

Kate:  As cliche as it might sound it would be don’t give up. Yes the economy sucks. Yes the business ain’t what it used to be. Yes you will never be rich. BUT you do get to tell stories and create beauty for a living.

…do what you love.  You really have to be obsessive about making photos…

Favorite taco:

Kate:  The Al Pastor at Curras

Erin:  I lean toward the Trailer Trash (Trashy) at Torchy’s.  But really, anything in a tortilla.  

Favorite BBQ:

Kate:  I just moved to Lockhart, so I’d have to say Smittys.  Also the chopped beef sandwich at the Chisolm Trail.  It’s $2 and so wrong and so good.

Erin:   This isn’t original, but Franklin’s brisket is my favorite.  

Favorite Beverage:

Kate:  I’ve been really liking a Moscow Mules lately.

Erin:   Lefthand Milk Stout.  Secondarily, Russell’s Reserve Rye with Central Market Prickly Pear soda—it smells amazing.  

Fav weekend getaway spot in Texas:

Erin:  I haven’t been away in 10 years!  In theory, this was my favorite spot: We went to Bastrop State Park with the kids— went swimming and hiking, and spent amazing afternoon. We saw these beautiful WPA-era cabins and we said, this is where we’re gonna go for a weekend at least once a month.  Then as we were leaving the park, we saw a giant cloud of smoke rising in the rearview mirror.  So, if I could go back a few years before the fire, I would totally go there.  The reality answer is that we head to Blue Hole in Wimberly a few times each summer to spend the day. We cap it off with beer and pizza at Brewsters (where we are waited on by 3-year-olds) and a stop off at Callahans in Buda to look at all the taxidermy.

Kate:  Right now, the Havannah Hotel in San Antonio.  It’s a Liz Lambert creation, and it’s just an hour away.

Chicago Choppers Motorcycle members. All photos © Dennis Darling

Dennis Darling is an Austin-based photographer and professor at the University of Texas who has inspired generations of photojournalists.

You’ve done a lot of traveling and covered widely different subject matter. What drives that?
It’s curiosity. When I came to UT, I came on a tenure track, which means in six years if you haven’t proven yourself to their satisfaction, they ask you to leave after the seventh. So I saved a few hundred dollars a month. I figured that would give me enough if I didn’t get tenure, or if I did get tenure I would ask for time off and go travel. A lot of those pictures I send out [in the email retrospective], I haven’t seen at all. They were just contact sheets. They were from that trip in ‘86 or ‘87 where I got tenure and bought a one-way ticket around the world with no particular thing in mind.

For $2000 back then, you could buy a ticket, good for 365 days and, as long as you were heading in the same direction, you fly where ever. It was nice to be able to wake up in Malaysia and say, “Today I want to go to Thailand,” and just go on a whim.

There was no agenda?
None. I went to Ireland and then England and then flew to Delhi because I had been to Europe a lot at that point. I was out seven months, I think. This was before the Internet. It was hard travel. I went to make a phone call from Katmandu to the US and they said come back Thursday and this was Monday. They had one wire coming into this place and you had to make an appointment and they’d put you in a booth and could call for ‘x’ amount of minutes.

It proved to me that I could probably go anywhere and do anything I wanted to by myself – that I didn’t need any support. I went into the jungles of Borneo, I went into Burma when it was still Communist. I went up into the golden triangle in Laos and Thailand. I did all these weird-ass things, and for the most part, I didn’t take any pictures. I just did things that interested me. I didn’t photograph everything I ever saw. Most of the stuff I did [photograph], were things that I wanted to remember, not necessarily an interesting picture.

All my negatives fit into four shoe boxes.

All my negatives fit into four shoe boxes. I throw them all away, all the jobs I ever done. When I got out of college I worked for Whittle Communications which owns all these college life magazines, but they also own Esquire. I worked for Parent Magazine. I used to have pages of [negatives] of breast feeding mothers and people and playgrounds. I just went through my negatives again and threw away another basket full of them. Hopefully, in the next decade when I’m old and grayer, I’ll have just one shoe box that I can pass down say, “Here’s what I’m proud of,” and the rest of it doesn’t even matter.

Any surprises in going back through that work?
The surprises are the subject matter I’ve been able to get in to. And I don’t know why that interests me. Probably Catholic school full of people in strange uniforms, violence, and intolerance. It just gave me a taste for exploring those themes. Take a woman, dress her in wool and tell her she can’t have sex for the rest of her life – that will make somebody mean. They got a chip on their woolen shoulder. The thing I value the most is having a sense of history – the Holocaust, the Mexican-American men that fought in the Mexican revolution, a series I did for Texas Monthly, or the WWII veterans, or any number of the other things I’ve done. I’ve had this desire to photograph things that will survive and be important somewhere down the line to somebody else.

Did you have that sense of history in the making when you were photographing the KKK or motorcycle gangs in the ’60s and ’70s?
I don’t know. I’m drawn to the darker side – the people who create the darkness or the people that suffer from it. I didn’t realize this until recently – I had photographed the American Nazi Party and now I’m doing Holocaust survivors. I guess if you live long enough you end up back where you started.

I’ve seen one of your Nazi Party portraits from your email list and your portraits from Terezín. It strikes me that they are both nonjudgmental depictions. The way you approach the darkness is still respectful.
Yeah. I’m not there to judge. I have opinions but I’m not interested in what makes people tick, just to show that they’re ticking. One Jewish friend of mine…I showed her the Nazi portraits and she says, “You showed those SOB’s for what they really are.” I show the same picture to the Nazi’s and they say,” Great! You really show us the way we are,” and they give the prints to their families.

I’m drawn to the darker side – the people who create the darkness or the people that suffer from it.

So the photograph is a neutral document.
That’s important. It’s easy to photograph somebody in an awkward position. Newspapers do this all the time. They’ll find the most unflattering pose for somebody that they’re in opposition to – some politician with his mouth open or an awkward look. It’s easy to do that in subtle and not so subtle ways. Someone picking their nose or itching their butt. It’s harder to convey that kind of sinister existence or survivors that have overcome obstacles that live to be 90. It’s harder to convey, in a subtle way, that people can then draw their own conclusions. I hope [the viewers] are interested enough to follow through and go beyond the pictures and learn something about what the pictures are of. Maybe not to learn more, but to whet their curiosity. Whether they learn anything or not, I don’t know. I have plenty of pictures that are not flattering to the Klan but I choose not to use them. I think you can be opinionated in a civil, and not mean-spirited way, but that’s not en vogue at the moment.

I’m basically a crappy technician and a lot of my negatives aren’t good negatives, but I occasionally hit on something. I credit that to my sense of design and proportion rather than my photographic skills. I should be going to digital. I’m the perfect candidate to take digital pictures because I’m crappy at doing that other stuff. But I do and it takes a lot of work to make it work.

That’s why I’m sending out all these things I haven’t seen before, because I didn’t have the energy to screw around in the darkroom with a 35mm frame that’s 40 years old. But now you have Photoshop, spot the dust electronically, burn, dodge, and make prints. The technology has caught up with my inept-ability. It’s starting to gel now. And that was the impetus for this email thing. I knew I could send 100 or 200 photographs that I’ve never seen larger than an inch tall. The technology made it possible.

I’d been thinking about this for a long time. Last year I tried to make a picture a week and it lasted about four weeks. I just couldn’t do it and schedule it around school to get in the studio, the PTA or my wife’s travel. Then I thought I can send one out a week that even I haven’t seen.

I look at these contact sheets and I think, I don’t remember that at all. There’s one coming up that’s a grab shot, it’s called Garbage Can Cowboy, Venice. It’s this guy walking with a little pistol.

Garbage bag cowboy, Venice,Italy, winter 1992

He’s got a mask on and this ugly looking hat and he has a garbage bag over him with a star on it. I looked at that picture and said, “This is really weird.” Its’ not a great picture, just a weird picture. It needed a lot of work, it was on a gray cloudy day at dusk, and I’m sure I just said there’s no way I’m going to get grade 4.5 paper and screw around with burning and dodging on that thing, it’s never going to come out. Now it took 15 minutes and I have a decent print of it. But there’s lots of them like that, with vague recollections or no recollection at all.

Do you need an intern?
I have my share of student help. I have various TA’s, four or five a year that work for me, and they have an aversion to work. Ha ha. They want the money but they don’t want to do anything. It takes more time to manage them than just do it myself. And what would they do?

Make scans of the negatives? Are you afraid of how they would handle them?
I handle the negatives terribly. I’m, like, eating a ham sandwich while I’m doing it. I shouldn’t say this, but I don’t even measure my chemistry. I think about film the same way I think about cooking. If it says a cup, it’s sort of a cup, could be a little more or less, and a pinch of sugar. Not that I’m a great cook, but I’m a decent cook and I bake well. It’s a unique experience each time, and sometimes it works and sometimes the souffle comes out flat. I’ve got a lot of flat souffles on gelatin.

How did your project on Terezín begin?
I was sent to Brazil on study abroad and I hated it because it was so rough and tumble. It was impossible to take a group out with cameras and expensive equipment. I was in Salvador, the third largest city and the old slave capitol. It was 100% black and I’m 100% white, there’s no body whiter than me but Queen Elizabeth. It was difficult [to shoot] because of the poverty. We had five years worth of salary for a local around our necks. We didn’t lose anything but some pick-pocketed money. When asked to go back again, I said, “No. What else you got?” And they said Prague.

Doris Grozdanovicova, photographed in front of the former military hospital where her mother died - Terezin Ghetto, Terezin, Czech Republic, June 2012

I didn’t even know about Terezín, but I hopped a ride with another study abroad group because they had an extra seat. I went to Dachau 25 years earlier and got interested in the Holocaust then. I started taking my students out to Terezín and then started looking for survivors to talk to my students when we went out there.

The thing about Terezín that’s interesting is, unlike most of the camps that were wooden barracks, the Germans took over a 17 century fortress town and kicked all the residents out, turned it inside out, and made the town the prison. It was a beautiful architecture done in the 1700’s baroque and 1800’s empire style, all in really good shape. It had churches and stores – all that stuff became barracks. A town of six or seven thousand turned into a town of 70 thousand when it was a prison. They were putting people up in the attics.

There was an inordinate amount of people with creative talent that were held there. Because of where they were drawing from – Bohemia – there were a lot of composers, artists, sculptors, musicians, and dancers all in that one place. And because it was not a death camp, but more of a concentration or holding tank, the Germans allowed them to perform for each other and perform for them.

They had these things called “friendly evenings” where the kids would perform little children’s operas, or, one of the people I photographed, the 108-year-old woman in London, she was a concert pianist. She played 100 performances while she was in Terezín for over four years. Because of that, Terezín has this reputation of being almost a country club. By comparison to Auschwitz it probably was. They were doing these performances, but also getting shot and hung in the lower fortress below the town, brutalized and then sent off to other camps. It has a lot more survivors than Auschwitz. People survived Terezín in one way or another.

I went over there in the spring to attend this conference of survivors, and I didn’t get many takers because I don’t speak Czech. But I did meet a woman who was a filmmaker and producer. She had done some documentary work about WWII. She knew all the people, so I hired her to make connections for me and act as translator. I was able to photograph a lot of people, almost two dozen, in a short period of time when I was there this summer. They trusted her. Now they are asking for pictures for their newsletter, but it took a year to get to that point. I plan on going back a couple of more times. There’s reputed to be 400-600 people left, although at this point most of the people left were children at the time.

What’s it like working with the survivors of the Holocaust?
It’s a little stressful. You’re dealing with these people that, for the most part, most of their families perished. It was arbitrary – you go, you stay. If you could do something for the war effort or entertain the Nazis, you could stay, or you were a good cook, or whatever. It was capricious. So a lot of times people would go there as a family and then the family would be whittled away with each transport so they would be the only person surviving from the entire family. They would be shipped off, usually to Auschwitz because it was the closest camp to the east.

That’s stressful to say, “Would you mind coming back to this hospital where your mother died when you were 12 or 13?”

Is there a lot of survivor guilt?
Not so much survivor guilt, but I feel sort of guilty because I’ve been trying to photograph these people in locations that are significant to their history. Some of them are feeble or have medical conditions and can’t leave their apartments. If I can, I try to talk them into going some place that has some kind of meaning, good or bad. That’s stressful to say, “Would you mind coming back to this hospital where your mother died when you were 12 or 13?” They generally come.

The woman that I brought out to the hospital was the first person I met 6 years ago that got me interested in the project. I was on quite good, friendly terms with her, but she wouldn’t go into the hospital. She would stand out in front of it, but would not go in. It’s that kind of thing.

It’s not like the photos I take here – portraits just for fun of somebody dressed up in trash or recycled goods. Everyday there I’d wake up with a black cloud over my bed – oh, another survivor, but there was a bigger cloud if I wasn’t able to photograph them. It’s a contest against the clock. I’ve already had one of them die. I had written her about photographing her a couple of times. I didn’t hear back. I wrote back in the summer and she didn’t reply again. My fixer then said, “You know, she died last week.”

Everyday there I’d wake up with a black cloud over my bed – oh, another survivor, but there was a bigger cloud if I wasn’t able to photograph them.

A lot of the sites are also being destroyed. I photographed a lot of stuff in the train yard because its scheduled to be an office building soon. I missed photographing the foundation of the old barracks because they got bulldozed. Prague’s expanding so they’re going to these sites that used to be on the outskirts of the downtown area that are now in the downtown area. They’re vanishing. Terezín is falling down.

Some of the buildings I was let in hadn’t been opened in 40 years. Me and my fixer would go out there and the city manager would come and open up this huge barracks that was two blocks of ruined buildings and would let us in, lock the door, and say,”Call me when you want to get out.” We’d be locked in there. It’s fascinating. I look forward to working more on it.

What’s next with the project?
I’m doing this thing in the fall, just as an add on component to a musical performance at bass concert hall for three days, ‘The Music of Terezín’, some of the music that was written and performed at Terezín.’

Do you only shoot medium format? Some of the Terezín stuff looked like a panoramic format…
I guess I do. I don’t have a 35mm. The pano I’ve had since I was a student is called a Brooks Veriwide. It’s the old Graflex back with a Super Angulon lens, so it’s in essence a 4×5 camera – you have to cock the shutter, shoot, advance the film. You have to consciously move from one frame to another or you get double exposures. It’s as close to shooting with a 4×5, except the film holders, as you can get on a 2.25 camera. There are only 8 pictures on a roll, 4×9 or something. The Super Angulon lens is made for at least a 4×5 camera or a 5×7, so you’re only getting the center of the lens – you don’t get that wrap distortion. It’s 101 degrees which is about what two eyes see next to one together. I like it a lot.

The drawbacks are the largest aperture is 5.6, so you’re always need light. The depth of field is critical, and that’s why I take 12 frames instead of two. You’re not actually focusing because it’s a rangefinder. You just set the distance. Sometimes you just get their ear in focus. That’s a challenge just to make a picture. Of the 12 pictures I have, 4 photos are bracketed not for exposure but for depth of field – it goes 2 feet, 6.6 feet, 16 feet and infinity. Outside it’s easy with bright light, but inside – there’s one in the warehouse – I was shooting at 8th of a second and holding real still.

You’ve been a professor at UT for 30 years. What have you learned from watching generations of students go into the profession?
I came in Pampers and I’m leaving in Depends. Got the whole bowel cycle. Haha. You would think it would be interesting, but no. The students are less curious about things now. It’s that trophy generation that wants everything handed to them. “Can you tell me who to contact?” Instead of going out and making contacts themselves. I think the digital age adds to that. Maybe laziness is too harsh a word, but complacency where, “Oh yeah, I’ll just take 25 shots and get one instead of take one and getting one.” I’m not enamored by digital photography. I still shoot film.

I think digital tends to trivialize some aspects of photography and gives the students a mystical sense that they don’t have to think to much about what they’re doing. In some cases that’s very good. I don’t own a digital camera but I have one on loan from Olympus that I do street photography with.

I think digital tends to trivialize some aspects of photography and gives the students a mystical sense that they don’t have to think to much about what they’re doing.

I don’t have to think. I know it’s going to focus and it’s going to make the right exposure. I’ve never shot it on anything but Program mode. It’s good exercise. Like photographic batting practice. Bunting or something. Not hitting home runs but bunting. Making pictures.

[Digital] is counter to everything I learned in school. And I think that what I teach is not the hardware and software of photography, but the seeing. You can walk two blocks from my classroom and see the Gutenberg Bible. The same graphic principles in that book apply to a web screen, or a magazine page, or a photograph – the rule of thirds, this, that, and the other. Those doesn’t change, just the technology changes. The technology makes people think they actually know more or better than they actually do.

How do you get students to get beyond technology to the basis of seeing?
I don’t know if they can do that. I just think the good ones will. You really can’t teach photography, and what you really can’t teach that photographers need, is curiosity. You cannot teach curiosity. If you’re not curious about life then you’re just spinning your wheels.

You really can’t teach photography, and what you really can’t teach that photographers need, is curiosity.

What is it about the trophy generation that contributed to this lack of curiosity? Is it the ability to Google anything we want?

Probably so, and people like me that spoil their children. They say, “Oh, you need milk? Here let me do that for you.” Instead of, “Go get the milk yourself and learn how to open the cap.” The photographers now – some of them are very, very good. And the ones that are tend to be multi-talented with interest in photography, design, fashion, art. But the people that just want to make pictures and work for National Geographic, they’re not interesting people.

Students aren’t very interesting. I used to hang out with students, maybe because I was more their own age at one time. I still hang out with them, but the pool I hang out with – either I’ve become more discriminating or they are less interesting, or both – but they tend to not be very demanding about what you teach them and what they want to learn. They want things presented in an easy to absorb or consume fashion, which is unfortunate.

Photojournalism, or art in general, is the journey rather than the destination. Sometimes there’s never any destination, sometimes ‘no destination’ is conceived by the photographer. It’s getting moving in some direction, but not to a place where you can sit. This generation is destination-heavy and journey-light.

[The] trophy generation wants everything handed to them. “Can you tell me who to contact?” Instead of going out and making contacts themselves.

You’ve said in other interviews that you’re an ‘occasional photographer’ and there’s no reason to photograph all the time. What’s up with that?
I take single pictures. I do series too, but each one can, hopefully, stand by themselves. I’ve done day-in-the-life, I’ve worked for newspapers and magazines and all that stuff. If I get one good picture that’s all I want each time I go out and raise the camera up. I’m not documenting everything around me. I look at these photo books and I think, how did that person ever get someone to publish that series of pictures? There’s only one or two good ones in there!

For the Holocaust series, I try not to waste people’s time and do three hour shoots. Most people have a very low tolerance and diminishing returns happens about 3 or 4 minutes after you make the first picture. Nobody’s taken their picture three or four times in a row and they think, you got it. Digital contributes to that, you can take 15-20 pictures in 10 seconds, but should you?

I took 20 frames tops for each person in the Holocaust series over a 15 or 20 minute period of time. My friend Michael O’Brien did that book ‘Hard Ground.’ He took two pictures, just two exposures for each person. People have to think more and shoot less, but the way the equipment and camera manufacturers and all that business goes, they tend to shoot far more and think very little, except how to put some kind of filter on it at the end. I’m really just an old fart. People who throw parts of their picture out of focus or throw on an effect – it’s trying to make chicken salad out of chicken shit. So I don’t carry anything but a camera and a light meter, and only occasionally.

Do you ever assign your students to shoot film?
UT just got rid of our darkroom. It just closed down. The rooms are still there, but there’s nothing in them. This is a nice time to be a traditionalist though because you can do some very un-traditional things, if that makes sense. I can use a material that basically hasn’t changed since the 1890’s – the film – in a camera that was built in the mid-20th century, and use 21st century technology for finishing, scanning, and making the print. You cover 150 years of photography to make that one picture. It’s an opportunity that other people haven’t had. There were no bridges from daguerreotype to tintype but now there are bridges that you can go back and forth between technologies and centuries. Someone like Robb Kendrick does tintypes. He has the originals, scans them, and then digital prints made on Iris printers. The opportunities to use old processes are great, you just have to have a vision, not Nikon’s vision or Canon’s vision of how things should look.

I can use a material that basically hasn’t changed since the 1890’s – the film – in a camera that was built in the mid-20th century, and use 21st century technology for finishing, scanning, and making the print. You cover 150 years of photography to make that one picture.

Your background is in art. What does the art approach add to a straight photojournalism program?
It probably doesn’t add anything. It probably prevents students from getting a decent job. Haha. But again going back to those basic principles. The Parthenon looks like it does because of Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian man (man with hands outstretched). The 35 mm frame, the piece of paper you write on, the windows you look out of, they’re all based on a ratio found in all art, something that we’re hard wired for. If you can get those basic principles across and have them applicable to the technology of the present time, then that’s the art influence.

Some people intuitively have an art background without even knowing it, and some people you can send to the Art Institute of Chicago for 10 years and they’ll come away with not much more than they went in with.

What’s difference between those people?
Curiosity probably. People do not look at things anymore. I have a 12-foot bulletin board in my office full of stuff that I put there so I could look up on occasion and be inspired. It always shows up in my photographs some where along the line. It might take a year, two years, or five years, or it might be the next photograph I take, but those things I stick up there for inspiration have an influence. But people hardly ever look, unless it’s a website or something on Facebook. They’re more interested in Facebook than Jansen’s History of Art. Even when they have something that highly suggests they might look at something beyond Facebook – subject matter they might be photographing, to see what’s been done beforehand – they don’t do it. They don’t take the opportunity. The technology is there but most of them don’t use it. They have no links to the past, it’s all future.

Are they reinventing the wheel?
It’s not even a wheel. It’s like a square wheel, or a reinvention of the sled.

Not to get completely off-topic, but does that have ramifications politically and historically, that we’ve lost the ability to learn from our past?
Well, I don’t know that we’ve lost the ability, we’ve lost the interest. These students that I have, they have a fragile grasp of anything over a few years before they were born, which was at this point, 1990.

Who are you inspired by?
Lots of people. How I learned lighting was to study Irving Penn. He’s a master of lighting and incredibly old school. For all his money, he had a studio on the roof in a New York building with window light. He had a camera, oftentimes an old Rollei, and a window. Sometimes he had some rolled-up carpet to put over a table to make it softer.

Richard Avedon I like because he’s adventurous, but he’s got a mean streak. I’ve met him a few times and went out to dinner with him years ago. I didn’t like him as a person, but I liked him as a photographer.

Is there a photograph you wanted to make that didn’t work out? An assignment that went horribly wrong or remarkably right?
Most of them go horribly wrong. It’s like Christmas, going out on assignment. It’s never what you think it’s going to be. It’s usually far better, or it’s a tie, or a pair of socks, or a sweater from your mother. My mother gives me a sweater every year. I’m from upstate New York. I haven’t lived there since 1967 but she gives me a sweater every year. I give it to Goodwill. You go down there in January, you’ll find a brand new sweater sitting on the shelf from the D. Darling collection.

Some assignments have gone terribly wrong, but then when you throw the negatives away you don’t ever remember. It’s a form of photographic amnesia. In ‘Desperate Pleasures’, a retrospective up to that time in the early ’80s, I wrote to not look at the book as if I had started as a child prodigy in photography. I destroyed all the Cro-Magnon Darling’s from the early years. Nobody sees, nobody knows.

Is that important for the photographer’s psyche, you think? To destroy the failures?
It is for mine. People, like Michael O’Brien, he’s got every single negative he’s ever taken. His garage is full of racks. He looks at mine and I’ve got three boxes on the shelf. He says, “What’s that?” I said, “My negatives.” “Yeah, but where’s the rest of them?” “That’s them. That’s it. That’s all.”

I don’t see any reason to have anything you’re not proud of lurking around in the wings. It never gets any better. Sometimes I’ll look through and find something like the Garbage Can Cowboy, but it’s there because at some point I made the value judgment that there might be something in the future. For the most part I’m a fairly good editor. And it’s from art experience and life drawing classes and all this stuff where you know that was a step you have to take. I have a sculptor friend that does bronzes. They’re worth thousands of dollars, and people ask him, “How long did it take you to do that?” And he says, “60 years.”

Everything you do, you have to take one step before you take the next. Without that step you couldn’t take the next, or, if you took the next, you’d stumble. But you don’t have to save your baby shoes or the sneakers you wore in third grade. They’ve done their job and out they go. The mistakes I made ten years ago, I’ve internalized it, and processed it, and hopefully I won’t make it again, but I don’t have to keep that mistake around to haunt me. And so it goes.

Everything you do, you have to take one step before you take the next. Without that step you couldn’t take the next, or, if you took the next, you’d stumble. But you don’t have to save your baby shoes or the sneakers you wore in third grade.

You’ve said you’re an ‘Under the Radar’ photographer. What does that mean?
I don’t have a website. I’ve never tweeted. I’ve never even texted. I have a job. All young photographers want to be famous, but I came to the conclusion a long time ago that it was too much work. You always have to be out there selling yourself. It’s just something I don’t want to spend my time doing. I’d rather be drinking a beer on the patio watching fireflies than emailing people to show them my portfolio. I’m lazy when it comes to publicity and if it happens, it happens. I’m not adverse to talking about stuff, I just don’t want to have to go and pursue it.

Not to draw a direct comparison, but I love those historic caches of photos like those of Vivian Meyer. Those archives that surface where someone spent their life diligently documenting – it’s a historical legacy because it’s an effort, sustained over a period of decades, and leaves evidence of a unique personal experience.
I have some of those same outfits she wore. With the purse and everything. I’m a little bit of a nanny, too. Ha Ha. I feel that way, too. It’s a past-time that I have, photography. I don’t watch sports. With a name like Darling, I got a dispensation at birth about being interested in athletic events. I tend not to watch TV, except the news. I don’t go to movies. I mean, I’m really dull, but I hang out with exciting people, and that’s the reason I’m able to hang out with them. They don’t see any threat. I come in with a single camera and a roll of film. No lights, no generators. I spend my time doing art and thinking about pictures and sometimes taking actual pictures. Other people go to sports bars, I go to Klan rallies.

Any advice you give to young photographers?
It depends on what they want to do. If they want to take pictures like mine, I would say get a job that’s not related to photography at all. In the past I’d say get a teaching job, but those don’t exist anymore. Old farts like me just landed someplace and then stayed. Everyone I know that teaches at other schools are my age and they’ve been there forever.

But if they want to do it just as a hobby or past time or whatever, I would say be curious and adventurous and go out and find things. I don’t see any reason for making pictures that somebody else can make five minutes later. The things that I photograph are the right time and the right place and they won’t happen again just the way they happened. The Klan in the ’70s turned into people in camouflage living in Idaho in the Aryan Nation. It’s not that I look for those things, but I’m somehow drawn to those situations.

I don’t see any reason for making pictures that somebody else can make five minutes later.

What’s an example of something someone could take five minutes later? Shadows and landscapes?
Oh, music. Every student wants to photograph bands. How boring. They want to photograph them performing. All musicians look alike, all stages look alike, they do the same thing over and over again, they play the same songs, they use the same instruments. That’s a case where they’ll go and make xeroxes of what they’ve already seen. There’s plenty of stuff out there. Look for the last of the line, the last munchkin from the Wizard of Oz, the last WWI vets. Things like that.

There’s things happening now that won’t happen again. I think there’s value in that. That particularly interests me because it goes beyond just making a document, it captures a piece of living history, the last thread. You’ve got to combine photography with your interests, even if it’s sports. If you’re sitting watching a Dallas Cowboys game, there’s things happening, the world is passing you by while you’re wasting your time.

Your portraits are very connected and some of them were the results of short-term rapport built in foreign countries. How do you approach people?
The problem with foreign countries, and the advantage, it’s a double-edged sword. I speak no other languages. I can order a beer and identify two body parts in Spanish. Other than that I’m verbally bankrupt after I leave the border. So you’re relegated to making animal noises or drawing pictures on the back of envelopes.

The pictures in foreign countries look differently than the ones I make here. The girls in Mexico, I didn’t talk to them at all, that was seeing something, approaching them, being non-threatening, making a picture and then you can say ‘Thank you.’

Mountain Mist, Main Plaza, Cuetzalan, Puebla, Mexico 1996

You just have to approach people in a non-threatening fashion. Lots of time I hold my hand out like I do for dogs, let them sniff me and then I pee on their leg. Ha ha. They might say ‘Fuck-off’, but I don’t know it because I don’t know ‘fuck-off’ in Spanish. So I wave and leave. That’s the advantage, you have no idea what they’re saying about you after you leave.

I think you have to be honest with them and tell them what you want, what you need, what you’re going to do with the stuff. I always send somebody back a picture. That helps when they get something back. I would suggest that.

[People] might say ‘Fuck-off’, but I don’t know it because I don’t know ‘fuck-off’ in Spanish. So I wave and leave. That’s the advantage, you have no idea what they’re saying about you after you leave.

What’s next?
I don’t know. Plastics. I think there’s a big future in that. Ha ha. I’d like to finish off this Terezín thing. I have no projects in the wings, but that’s generally how I operate. They just come up, you know? It could be almost anything.

Right now I’m doing this crap, well it’s not crap, it’s lighthearted stuff. Stuff I know I can do with hands tied behind my back. Pictures of women with wings or tattooed people or whatever. I’ve done it before. Because I’m married and I have two kids, 10 and 12, and they have school and I have commitments to PTA, or this or that, and it limits my travel. It prevents me from doing something more meaty. What I do here I like, but it’s photographic batting practice – hit a few balls to the outfield and some of them go over the fence. It’s necessary to occasionally shoot because you get rusty.

I would like to do a series of different portraits once a week again. I’d love to go out to the Mormon thing in West Texas, the FLDS, to photograph those women that dress the same way with those hairdos all the same way. I would love to do that. I would give a collection of prints to anyone that could get me into their compound to make those pictures.

One of my students photographed some women boxers, there’s a gym on the south side someplace, and he never did that, he changed projects, but I told him I would steal it as soon as he graduated. He graduated in May. I’m interested in women. Men don’t particularly interest me at all. Maybe I’ll do a series with pictures I have and pictures I have yet to take. I’m always busy, but most of the time it’s just being busy with no particular end-game.